MATERIALS
4-9th century:
 Wool, animal skins, tanned leathers
10th century:
 Royalty & Nobility----linen and wool
 Peasants----russet.
 Black, brown, gray, green, red
11th century:
 Royalty & Nobility----linen, scarlet, silks, wool, and embroidering on any cloth
 Populace----coarse wool
 Peasant-----russet
 Black, brown, gray, pale blue, red, reddish brown, yellow
12th century:
 Royalty & Nobility----silks
 Peasants----russet
 Black, brown, gray, green, gold, purple, red, scarlet
13th Century:
 Royalty----gold, silk, silver, velvet
 Nobility----Fustian (thinner velvet)
 Lords & Master’s----canvas, linen 
 Peasants----russet
 Black, brown, gold, gray, orange, purple, silver, tan
14th century:
 Royalty----brocade, satin, scarlet, silk, taffeta
 Nobility----same
 Populace----Flannel, linen, wool
 Peasant----canvas, russet, serge
15th century:
 Royalty----Damask, satin, scarlet, silk, velvet
 Nobility----same as above
 Populace----Flannel, serge, wool
 Peasant----Canvas, russet
 Black, blue, brown, gold, green, gray, purple, orange, red, tan, yellow, white

DYES  from natural substances such as plants, roots, animals, vegetables
DYE HOUSE  building where cloth was colored using various dyes.
    ALUM    mineral salt used as a mordant or chemical key to dye cloth
    BAIRIUM  metal extracted from ores used in dyestuffs, glass, poisons
    CHAMOMILE GOLDEN  herb, flower used to make yellow dye
    COCHINEAL  insect in southern America, female dried body  makes red dye
    CROCUS plant STAMENS   saffron yellow, or vegetable gold
    DRAGON’S BLOOD    tincture  in alchemy from vegetable pigment for red
    DYEWEED   small plant yielding a yellow dye
    FOLIUM   red vegetable coloring agent
    INDIGO plant used to make natural dye of a blue color
    KAMALA  powder from Indian tree  makes orange-red dye for silk and wool.
    KERMES   dried body of the female Coccus Illicis makes red dye
    LICHEN PLANTS   violets
    LOGWOOD   natural black dye used with wool and silk
    MADDER   red coloring from wood, also an herb
    MOSS/Mint Plants   green
    SAFFRON YELLOW   orange yellow
    TURNSOLE  purple dye
    WELD PLANT    yellow
    WOAD  foul smelling plant of mustard family producing blue dye
       PARTICOLORING   coloring/decorating one half or quarters of a garment
       in one color and others in different ones.
DYER
    ANNATTO MAKER   worked to manufacture dyes for paint or printing
    ARCHIL MAKER   marker of violet dyes from likens
    BRASILER  one who dyes cloth
    CALICO PRINTER   dyed and colored calico
    COLOURATOR /Coloratora   worked with dyes
    COLOUR MAN  mixed dyes in textile trade
    DEXTER  dyer
    LISTER/Litster   one who dyes cloth or fabric
    TINCTOR   dyer
    TINTER/Teinter   performs tinting
 
GLOSSARY
   BARBED/Row/Shorn    three finishing processes in the making of cloth
   CAMISTER  minister of the cloth
   CLOTHIER/Clothman/Weaver  maker or seller of cloth  
   CLOTH LAPPER    takes cloth from carding machine and readies it for next process
   CLOTH LINTER   removes unwanted threads from finished cloth
   LINED  second piece of cloth attached to another
   CAMISTER  minister of the cloth
   LOOMWEIGHT  weight used to hold down the vertical threads in a simple loom. They may have been  made from circular or clay pieces of clay or a stone with a hole drilled through it.
    SPINDLE WHORL  smaller circular stone or piece of pottery with a central hole for a spindle. It was around  the spindle shaft that wool could be wrapped around after the process of carding,
    STEPS to MAKE CLOTH   shear, sort, scour, blend, pick, card, comb, spin, twist threads together, wind on bobbin, weave on loom.
    SISSOR/CISSOR/Sortor  tailor
    WEBSTER    woman weaver
 
BAIZE/Bayes 15th c.  soft  woolen/cotton fabric resembling felt
BOMBAZEEN   twill Fustian cotton/wool dyed for mourning
BROCADE   silk fabric with raised patterns usually in gold and silver
BUCKRAM stiffening used for collars, belts etc.
BUREL/Borel   coarse woolen cloth
BYSSINE    fine silk fabric
CAMBRIC   15th c. fine linen or cotton.
   CAMBRIC MAKER   made a fine linen or cotton fabric called cambric.
CAMLET camel hair or goats wool fabric
CANVAS     12th c. heavy cloth of cotton, linen or hemp.
CENDAL  silk fabric resembling taffeta for Nobles
CORDUROU cotton or silk velvet with raided ridges or Wales
DAMASK   silk material often woven with gold/silver thread
DUNSTER  14th c. broad  cloth made in Somerset.
ERMINE    white fur
FEAR-NAUGHT  17th c.  waterproof for clothes and sails.
   FEAR-NAUGHT MAKER  wove thick wool cloth for outer cloaks/coats.
FLANNEL   13th c.   wool fabric with a nap.
FLAX   used to weave linen
FRIZE   gold cloth
FREIZE   from Wales
FRUSTIAN   cotton fabric from Norwich such as corduroy.
FUSTIAN CUTTER  worker who cut loops in fabric to produce nap.
KERSEY   heavy wool similar to beaver with a cotton warp for work clothes.
LINSEY WOOLSEY   coarse fabric woven from linen/cotton with wool filling
MELTON  heavy wool for over coats
MINIVER    white fur or spotted white and gray used for linings and trimmings
MUSLIN   cotton women in different fineness
OILSKIN  waterproof cloth used for coverings and garments
POLEDAVE  very coarse fabric
    POLDAVE WORKER   makes poldave, a course fabric
RAYE   fabric with horizontal stripes
RENNES   variety of Chainsil cloth
RUSSET   coarse fabric dyed with tree bark peasants wore
SACKCLOTH   13th c.  coarse cloth worn for mourning
SAMITE  heavy silk fabric sometimes interwoven with gold
SARANET   thin silk woven by Saracens
SAY   12th c wool worsted for red Gaul cloaks, similar to serge
   SAY WEAVER   made Say, material used for table cloths or bedding
SERGE   13th c. twill or worsted wool from Colchester
SCARLET  wool dyed red
SHAGREEN   16th c.  untanned leather skin of horse, eel, shark etc.
    SHAGREEN CASE MAKER   one who worked with shagreen leather
SHALLOON  light, twilled woolen fabric used for linings
SILK  lustrous fiber from a silk-worm
    BAUDEKYN   rich silk and gold tissue.
    DANTER   female overseer in the winding rooms of a silk mill
    SAMITE  later known as Silk woven by the Chinese and Saracen’s
    SANCINET WEAVER   silk weaver
    SARANET   thin silk woven by Saracens
    SILK DRESSER    prepared the silk for weaving.
    SILK ENGINE TURNER   turned wheel on automatic silk weaving looms
    SILKER    sewed ends of the fabric to prevent the layers from separating
    SILK MERCER   sold silk cloth and items made from silk
    SILK THROWER   worker in silk
    SILK TWISTER    silk spinner
    SILK TURNER   turned the wheel on weaving looms
    WINDSTER    silk winder
   TAFFET  13TH c.  thin silk
TOILINET   type of quilting
VELVET   12th c.  thick soft piled silk with a cotton backing
WOOL   yarn made from sheep hair, spun into cloth, heavy, warm
    CARDING MILL   place where wool is passed through hand held
    cards of producing nails
    STAPLE    official site for selling wool to control trade and collection of customs
    WOOLCOMBER   separated wool fibers ready for spinning
    WOOL DRIVER     brought the wool to market
    WOOLEN BILLY PIECER    pieced broken threads together
    WOOLMAN/Wool Sorter/Stapler    sorted wool into different grades
    WOOL SORTER  one who sorted wool into different grades
    WOOLSTED MAN   merchant/seller of woolen cloth
    WOOL WINDER   one who wound wool into balls to sell

PATTERNS





Circle Cloak

                         PATTERNS
                     Where to find them

1. Fabric or stores that carry fabric
2. Internet Sites below
3. Realm Seamstress
4. Magazines dedicated to the Middle Ages

denver fabric.com
 For fabric, trim, patterns and anything need to accomplish your costume.
folkwear.com  
 The original maker of patters for Medieval groups since the 1970’s.
mccalls.com
 For Reanissance Maiden Pattern #’s
sewing central.com
simplicity.com
 For Renaissance Maiden Pattern #’s
tudorshoppe.com

McCalls Renaissance Maidens
Pattern #’s    3663  4091Chemise 4107Bodice 4806Hats
  3789 Childs     4805 Mens hats
Simplicity Renaissance Maidens
  4923  5925  5794  5571childs
  7756  8192  8715  8881
  9531  9866  9836
Many patterns today encompass the European, German, and Italian Renaissance period.
Bridal dress patterns offer A-line dresses and sleeves acceptable to the Middle Ages.
Many every day patterns with minor altering will make yesterdays styles.  Take a picture of a past garment you would like to sew, go to a fabric shop and look through the pattern books. 

PRACTICAL HOMEMADE PATTERNS
    In nearly every realm or group patterns are passed around, and that’s a good thing for new members to get started on their costume.
     But when you want a better fitting costume there are only two options, buy a specific size pattern that you will still have to adjust anyways or make your own that will fit perfectly.
     Newspapers are to realm women what duct tape is to a warrior, each is glorious.
     Any pattern made from a newspaper will last years and will cost very little.
     To make a clothing pattern tape several together, lay down in the middle and have someone trace your Outline. Now you have a complete pattern of your form.
     This serves as a basic pattern you will lay other patterns on top of to adjust for making a good fitting costume.
     From there its easy to take any of the pattern from this section and make a dress, tunic or shirt you need.
     You can use the newspaper you get everyday and read, or if you don’t want the ink mess you can go to your local newspaper office and ask if they have any left over end rolls. Some will donate them to your realm, or will sell for a small fee.
     Blank paper can not only be used for patterns but for kid crafts, calligraphy etc.
     Some patterns need to be made exact or form fitting to make a vest, shoes, or armor.
     For these see below.

Make Your Own Form
     You can make your form inexpensively that will last many years as well.
     This is handy to make form fitting vests, shoes, armor, gambesons, plate of coats etc.
Materials Needed
Duct Tape
Old T-shirt
Trash bag--size depends on your body or foot size
* When wrapping with duct tape make it firm but not tight around body or feet.

Put on T-Shirt.
Cut one hole on each side of bag for arms, and one in top for your head to go through.
Put trash bag over T-shirt.
Have friend take duct tape and wrap body from neck and shoulders to the thigh.
Wrap body in a couple of layers.
When finished cut duct tape up both sides and lift over head.
Retape sides.

Shoes
First decide what type of shoe you want to make such as a basic ankle walk around shoe or
a boot that goes up to the calf or thigh.
Place large enough bag over foot to cover it and up to where you want shoe to stop.
Duct tape entire foot stopping where shoe type would.
Cut inner side from sole to where duct tape stops.
Slip foot out and retape opening.
* Always do both feet. Each is different and one will be slightly bigger.

TRIM
     This item added to clothing was an essential part. 
     Tunics and shirts can have trim added to the bottom edge as well as cuffs, collar and shoudler, and V neck opening.
     Trim comes in wide or narrow, with narrow being less expensive. 
     Look for dresses in the Goodwill or garage sales that have it to remove at home.
     If you don’t have a sewing machine any trim can be hot glued on for the cost of a glue gun and sticks for around $5.00.
 FURS    beaver, martin, rabbit, squirrel
    BUDGE   lambskin
    ERMINE    white fur
    FURRIER   sells/makes furs
    GRIS   gray squirrel
    SABLE   dark black fur or hair of the sable weasel
    VAIR   gray squirrel pelt and white ermine
LACE
    BONE LACE MAKER   made pillow lace
    LACE-DRAWER   child employed in lace work, drawing out threads.
    LACE-MASTER/Mistress  hired workers to produce lace in their homes.
    TATTING/TATTER    makes knotted lace of cotton or linen with a shuttle
    TWIST HAND   made lace or operated machine

                                            REALM  GARB

MENS
QUIK GARB

Collared dress shirt 2-3 sizes to big, turn collar under, folder over button section and hot glue closed.  Turn cuffs under for blouse effect, hot glue dip in front and back of shirt under for a straight across look
Pair of corduroy pants
Motorcycle boots/ long leg moccasins, or leather buckled shoes.
Wide belt of brown or black leather extra long length wide 1-2’ wide, 72’ long
Leather cord or string to hand tankard from belt, along with draw string pouch   

Men:
 Wore mostly jerkins/vests, breeches, and a long sleeve muslin shirt.
 Hair was to the shoulder or longer, tied back in a strip of leather.
 Most were stubble faced, unshaven for weeks at the time
 Belts were worn wide and long 1 ½ -2” wide to 72” long with rounded end of the left to dangle in front.
 Belt pouches for necessities, some had loops to attach daggers or draw string  pouches along tankard hooks were all attached to belts. 
 Pouches were made of leather and cloth then, while we have added suede.
 Cords, thin ropes and leather strips were good for holding jerkins together, to and to keep breeches or  leggings from falling.
NO:  Jeans, tennis shoes, polyester shirts or pants, oxford shoes, pants with pockets
YES: buckle/leather shoes, motor cycle boots, moccassin legging boots
Styles: Burnose/Cheesemaker shirts,  draw string pants no patterns, doublet/vests, 

MENS CLOTHING GLOSSARY
BALDRIC   fabric/leather band worn diagonally across chest and back
BARMCLOTH  Leather apron
BOMBAST  16th c. padding  of cotton or rags used to stuff garment linings
BREECHES
     BRAES   breeches
     PETIT-Drap   breeches
     PANTALOON  combined stocking and breeches
     SLOP-HOSE   sailor's breeches
   TRUNK HOSE   15TH c. style breeches to show off legs with padded ring from  waist to which long  netherstocks were sewn
     VENETIANS  buttoned/tied in concealed front opening with breeches fastened at knee separate from nether stocks, codpiece not worn.
BRAGUETTE   cod piece
     BRAYE   triangle fabric covering opening of mens breeches
BRANC  smock
BROIGNE   jerkin
BUFLE  boat of buff leather
BURNOOSE   upper garment/shirt with a hood attached worn by Arabs and Moors
BUSKIN   footed leggings with thick soles made of leather and embroidered
CAPES/COATS
     BALANDRAS    12th century hooded rain cape
     BARRETE   round wool/felt hat
     CHAMATRE   15th century long wide fur-lined braided coat
     CYCLAS   short cape-like cloak worn by both men and women
     HOOD & Gorget   covered shoulders and head
     MANTLE  loose, sleeveless cloak or cape
     POUR POINT   13th c. ceremonial short coat
CAPS/Hoods
     BARRETTE    round wool/felt hat
     BIGGIN  cap men wore to bed which tied under the chin with laces or ribbon
     BIRETTA  soft skull cap
     CALE   linen skull cap
     CHAPERONE  15th c.  headdress for men
     LIRIPIPE  hat worn to one side with very long tail worn around neck
CARILLE   flared collar worn up to the ears
CORDUROU   cotton or silk velvet with raided ridges or Wales
COTEHARDIE   14th c.  masculine short tunic with long or half sleeves
CROSS-GARTERING  linen strips wound round the braies to hold them in position
DOUBLET   vest or short tunic padded and fitted
FOOTWEAR 
     CALIGA   Roman leather shoe
     CAMPAGUS Byzantine leather boot
     DUCKBILL 15^th c. wide pointed toes
     GALOSHES wooden soled shoes with leather straps to protect shoes from dirt
     GALLIOCHIOS wooden soled shoes with leather straps
     HOUSEAUX/Krackows   tall, leather boots, open or extended toe
     PANNOS de CANNABIUM canvas shoes
     PANTOFFLE 16th c. overshoe slipped on with no back, became slippers
     PATTERN wood strapped under footwear to protect it in wet conditions
     POULAINE/Krackows extended/exaggerated length at the toes termed
     PIGACHES 11^th c. shoes with long pointed toes
     SOLERS leather/Fabric foot wear/slippers
GARTERS   band of wool/cotton for knee breeches
GIBECIERE  fabric/leather pouch attached to girdle, next to dagger
HAINCELIN  short houppelande with embroidered sleeves
HOOD & GORGET   covered shoulders and head
     TIPPET   hoods long point or Coteharde’s long sleeve
JACKET  close fitting upper body garment
NETHERSTOCKS  hose
     POINTS   metal laces for attaching hose to doublet
 

WOMENS GARB
 Wore mostly one piece kirtles over chemise/sheaths of muslin belted  in the middle usually with a chain  to carry necessary items such as scissors, spoons, hair needs etc.
 Hair was parted in the middle then plaited in two braids covered over with  a cloth (wimple), cap or snood
 Shoes were a simple cloth on top, leather soles.
NO:  Darts in clothing, Polyester clothing of any kind, bright or neon colors, heels, no printed patterns,
YES:  Long A-line or Empire dresses, Chinese cloth shoes or Mary Jane, leather flats, knee high socks

WOMENS Quik Garb
Long sleeve A-line or Empire dress of blue, brown, green or gray (no polyester)
Chinese cloth strapped flat shoes, usually come in black, or Mary Jane leather flat shoes
Ring of flowers for the head
Ringed belt, small draw string evening purse

Women's Clothing GLOSSARY
AGRAFFE/Agrafe   large brooch for fastening cloak or robe
     FERMAIL  small brooch 
     FIBULA   ornamental brooch or clasp
BODICE  close fitting upper part of a woman's dress or laced vest
BUM-BARREL/BUM-ROLLER/ WAIST BOLSTER   padded roll tied around the waist and worn under the skirt, to hold it out.
BURNOOSE  combination hood  and cloak worn by women
CAFTAN   long sleeved unbelted outer garment of knee length
CAMISE/Chainse/Chemise  long linen undergarment, worn under dress
CAPS
     AMICE   square of line, folded diagonally, worn about head and shoulders
     BIRETTA   soft skull cap
     CALE  linen skull cap
     CAUL  silk skull cap worn alone or under a hat, often by maidens
     CHAPLET   wreath of leave/flowers or circlet with gems holding veil onto head
     CRESPIN/Creppin   linen cap
     ESTRAIN   straw hat
     SNOOD   netlike bag worn at the back of head to hold hair
     SPODIC   fur trimmed hat
     TORQUE/ Coif   small cap
CORSET  closely fitting under bodice
COTEHARDIE   14th c. used for feminine long gowns 
COTTERON   short peasant smock
FALSE SLEEVES   falling from lower part of garments sleeves
     FLUGEL   long ground trailing sleeves
FARTHINGALE  16th c. canvas/linen petticoat with whalebone hoops
FOREPART  decorated underskirt revealed through the inverted-V opening in the front of a skirt.
GIT   gown
GORGIAS  gauze covering a woman’s cleavage
HAIR PIN   long metal pin used to hold the hair in place
HEADDRESS
     BARBETTE  head band/veil worn under chin, over ears and head
     BEGUIN/FLEMISH HOOD linen rectangle folded in headdress caught at neck
     CHAPLET  circlet, twisted, padded and decorate, veil/ribbons hang from it
     CIRCLET  headdress of metal, cover w cloth/ribbon/flowers etc
     CORNALIA   pointed stiff veil or headdress
     CORONETTE   2 points headdress
     COVERCHIEF  headdress piled or wound, sometimes fastened beneath chin
     FILLET   stiff linen headdress
     FRENCH HOOD  15th c.  bonnet on stiff frame and worn far back on the head
     FRET   headdress made of gold or silver trellis
     GARGET  fabric wound around head part of a chaperone
     HEAD RAIL  oblong linen/cotton headdress
     HUVE   projecting headdress of many folds
     LIRIPIPE  lengthened peak of the medieval hood
     ORALIA   headdress with two blue stripes
     TIARA   crown like headdress of jewels, flowers, etc
     TOURET   tall headdress
     VOLET   veil worn at back of head
     WIMPLE/Guimp    headdress framing face
HOUPELANDE   15th c. nobility at court, or 14th c. Germany 
HOUSSE   long wide shawl, fastened at breast, fur trimmed at hem and neck
JERINET   padded jacket
LETTICE  species of fur of pale gray
MANCHESS   long flowing sleeves
NIGHT RAIL  garment wealthy women slept in though nude was more common
PELICON f ur-lined over tunic
PIPKIN  15th c. taffeta hat trimmed with ostrich feathers and decorated with jewels
PLASTRON  fur front of the sideless surcoat worn by medieval ladies
ROC  woman’s over garments
SHERTE  undergarment of white linen
SNUFKIN/Snoskyn   muff of cloth/fur, smaller ones hung from a woman's
STOMACHER  front panel of decorative fabric worn on top of bodice ending in point
SUCKENIE   13th c. German unbelted long, sleeveless over dress
SUPERTUNIC  f ull circle, sleeved over garment, belted at waist
TEMPLET   metal ornament for rolling hair above ears
TIPPET   streamer length sleeves hanging from elbow of tunic/gown, or short shoulder cape for women
   
                                                          CLOTHING GLOSSARY
AUMONIERE   drawstring bag/purse/pouch of fabric
BATTLEDORE   wood/stone cloth beater
CABRILLE  flared collar worn up to the ears
CLOAKS/CAPES/COATS
     CABAN   Arabic coat of wide sleeves
     CHAMATRE   15th century long wide fur-lined braided coat
     CYCLAS  short cape-like cloak worn by both men and women
     GREAT COAT   short, loosely fitting, full sleeved outer garment
     PALETOT    short coat
     PELISSE   long sleeved fur-lined cloak 
CLOAK   semi-circular, long, cord tied at neck or with broach
DOGLINE   venetian aristocratic fashion for men and women
EMBROIDERY
     BARGELLO WORK    variety of embroidery/needlework
     BEADING   embellishment/trim on clothing
     BILIMENTS    borders of silk/velvet with gold or jewels attached
     DISTAFF   vertical stick to hold wool from where the thread is drawn
     DORSAL   embroidered/tapestry covering a chair
     EMBROIDERY   embellishment of fabric by stitching
     HOOPS   to hold cloth as you stitch
     NEEDLED   wood, metal, ivory used to sew
     STOMPWORK  embroidered technique using knots
     TAPESTRY  wool that is hand woven on a loom 
     TAWDRY   lace work
EYEGLASSES   14th c. corrective lens to correct damaged vision
FLAXEN   pale-yellow or straw-colored
FOOTWEAR 
      ESCHAPINS  flat shoes, slashed on top
      GALLIOCHIOS    wooden soled shoes with leather straps
      HOUSEAUX  knee to calk thick leather boots
      LATCHET  strap used to fasten a shoe or clog
      PANNOS de XANNABIUM   canvas shoes
      PANTOFFLE   16th c. overshoe slipped on with no back, became slippers
      PIGACHES   11th c. shoes with long pointed toes
      SOLERS    leather/Fabric foot wear/slippers
GARDEROBE    closet, wardrobe for clothes
GARNEMENT   garment
GARTERS    band of wool/cotton for knee breeches
GIBECIERE   fabric/leather pouch attached to girdle, next to dagger
GIRDLE    ornamental belt for both sexes
GLOVE/Gauntlet    12th c. hand covering
      MITON  fingerless glove for heavy work
HAINCELIN   short houpelande with embroidered sleeves
HOSE   cotton/wool stockings gartered at the knee
HOUSEAUX   knee to calf thick leather boots
HOUSSE    wide shawl trimmed with fur
MERCHANTS
      FRIPPER  dealer in frippery, or old clothes 
       MERCER   dealer in cloth and fabrics
MAUNCHE  sleeve of a lady's dress
PANNUS  garment made with skins
PANTALOON   combined stocking and breeches
PINNER   one who made straight wire pins to hold ladies gowns together
PUNCH  tool used for metal decoration
REBRA  garments  revers
ROBE   meaning to dress, all components
RUFF  15th c. circular collar of a starched crimped/pleated frill
SABAL  sleeveless gown or cloak
POUCHES
     GYPCIERE  French hanging purse/pouch attached to girdle originally for hawking
SLEEVES
     MANCHET  showing through slashed half-sleeves of top garment
     MAUNCHE  sleeve of a lady's dress shown in a stylized manner
     PICADILS  scalloped or tabbed edge at the neck and armhole.
     SLASHINGS   small openings cut in garments
     TIPPET   pendant streamer from hood/sleeve also a shoulder cape.
SOTTANA   12th c. Italian undergone/tunic
UNDERGARMENTS    smock/tunic/ chemise
UNISEX CLOTHING
     BLIAUD   long over-tunic belted at waist, slit at sides worn by peasants/soldiers
     BLIANT   resembles a surcoat
     BONGRACE  15th c. flat, square cap with a short flap of velvet on each side
     CAPA   11th c. short silk hooded cap worn by both men & women.
     CAPUCHON/Chape   universal hooded cloak long or short.
     CASSOCK   worn loose, hip-length coat with a small collar or hood.
     CYCLAS  short cape-like cloak worn by both men and women.
     GABARDINE  long, loose overcoat with hanging sleeves.
     GARDCORP  outdoor garment worn by men and women.
     GERTRUDE    13th c. long unisex tunic
     GIRDLE    ornamental belt for both sexes
     HOUPELANDE  14th c. noble’s dagged sleeved garment, later German surcoat
     KIRTLE   tunic
      MANDILION   15th c. thigh-length overcoat, standup collar, long sleeves
    WAISTCOAT   14th c. quilted undergarment with breeches attached, or woman's dressing jacket

                                    STYLES



Elizabethan
  

Italian

               14th c.


Renaissance



Roman



Saxon
   
  Long Tunic        Short Tunic

Tudor